eating saint paul
Sunday, October 9, 2011
10/9/2011 Eating (Vegan) St. Paul
Vegan: Avoids the use of animal products (food, clothes, etc.)
How the "Pledge to be Veg" affected my food choices:
Day 1 - Vegan with Family
Morning: My parents came down for the weekend to visit a cranberry bog in Wisconsin, so we were on the road. Vegan options were somewhat limited at the gas station we stopped at for breakfast, but maple nuts and dried fruit worked and pumpkin spice latte with soymilk from starbucks helped. Impact: Challenging, but surmountable.
Lunch: On my mom's suggestion, we stopped at the Orange Moose Bar (part of a Best Western hotel) for lunch. To my surprise, they had a vegan item on the menu: Veggie Lover's Pasta. A ginormous plate of fettucini with mushrooms, tomatoes, onions and artichoke soaked in olive oil and garlic powder. I won't say it was great, but it would have been my choice vegan or not. Impact: None.
Dinner: We took my parents to Chipotle where you can get a mean vegan burrito (just omit the sour cream and cheese on the vegetarian and enjoy the guacamole and fajita veggies). Impact: Slightly healthier.
Reflection: My fiance has adopted a vegan diet for about 4 months, so my parents had been exposed to what it meant and have been supportive. You have choices about how much being a vegan plays in your interactions with others, and it was encouraging to know I was able to stick to a vegan diet without it impacting the eating out choices of others.
Day 3 - Vegan at Work
Morning: Typically, I stop by Groundswell Coffee for a chai with espresso and muffin or apple fritter for breakfast during the work week. Due to their roof collapsing, I had to seek sustenance elsewhere. A stop at Seward Cafe got me a chai with espresso (and soymilk) and a vegan berry and ginger zinger muffin. Tasty. Impact: none
Lunch: Heated up a kashi tuscan veggie bake that I had in my freezer from before the pledge with an apple I picked from the apple orchard with my parents. Impact: none
Dinner: Made a whole wheat pasta with mushrooms, green pepper, onion, garlic, tomato sauce and field roast italian sausage and topped with a little daiya mozzarella and got a slice of vegan pumpkin cheesecake with chocolate topping from Whole Foods. Impact: Tasty.
Reflection: Eating vegan increases the odds, but does not guarantee you are eating healthy. It may be easier to break myself of a junk food diet to more whole foods from a vegan diet because while the vegan daiya cheese will do as a substitute I don't crave it for itself (like I do cheese.)
Day 8 - Wait I thought it was a week-long pledge?!
Breakfast: Seward cafe is my favorite brunch restaurant (vegan or not). I decided to venture away from my obsession with the mariachi with tofu (not vegan with the white cheddar, vegan without) and go with something sweeter. I tried a vegan fluffy pancake and the righteous pancake (with millet, corn flours) and peach compote. Both were tasty, but please only buy one pancake as they're big and very filling. Impact: none
Lunch: My fiance is loving collard greens right now and cooked some up for lunch. I love nachos so I had gourmet vegan nachos with blue tortilla and flax seed chips, collard greens, black beans, daiya cheddar, salsa and tofutti better than sour cream. Impact: Seriously delicious.
Dinner: Ngon Bistro is one of my favorite restaurants and happens to also have a number of vegan options. I had the mock duck with lemongrass and veggies over broken rice and it was good. It wasn't as good as the bun with tofu (or pork). Impact: none.
Reflection: With both of us eating vegan, it's easier to share in food experiences (you can eat off the other's plate.)
One day to go on the "pledge to be veg" and the fiance has made the "vegan or not you'll like this stuff" tofu scramble he promised if I did the pledge. Time for me to reap my rewards.
Sunday, June 13, 2010
6/4/2010 -- North Shore's New Scenic Cafe
Friday night we arrived on the North Shore and settled into our cabin just steps off Lake Superior, if it wasn't raining and 45 degrees it would have been magical. Still, I was excited to eat dinner at the oft praised New Scenic Cafe just down the road. We had made reservations, but it looked like they weren't necessary (the place was bigger than I imagined.) From the road, the building has a somewhat minimalist, modern feel that is tempered by the gorgeous garden. Indoors the place is almost entirely wood and very welcoming (I'd say cozy, but you'd think cramped and it's not.)
What I ate (6/4/2010):
Artichoke slather with chives, aioli and asiago cheese served with grilled ciabatta
Pistachio crusted goat cheese, cherry tomato and mixed green salad
Grilled baby portabella mushrooms with honshimeji, cipollini onion confit, roasted plums, chioggia beets and pea shoots
The Review:
Honey, I don't care if you love (or hate) the artichoke dips you've had before. Get yourself to New Scenic and try the artichoke slather. Real, large chunks of artichoke surrounded in garlicky warm goodness and the salted chewy crunch of baked/broiled asiago cheese on top. The grilled bread was long and thin and allowed for multiple reloads of the delectable slather. The only downside is I think the cook was feeling rushed and didn't let the slather fully heat (the larger chunks of artichoke were cool.)
As I tried to avoid licking the last bits of artichoke slather out of the dish, I looked across the table at my dinner guest with the satiated, excited face of someone who might have just struck on a gold deposit. Then, came the salad and I've got to say the deposit wasn't as deep and rich as I thought it might be. The salad was respectable, but a solid "meh" was all I could muster after the artichoke. The roasted garlic vinaigrette was slightly bitter and the rest of the salad cried out for something more... maybe a shallot to add some crunch? The pistachios sort of clung to and got lost in the creamy goat cheese. Well, that's okay. I'm still high on artichoke slather and my next dish had numerous things I've never heard of before (I like the surprise.)
My entree intimidated me on the menu. What's honshimeji? It intimidated me on the plate too. It was beautiful, but how would it taste? Like I had hit gold again! First, I love beets with their roasted deep goodness that transcends with the right amount of salt. This dish combined the beet's deep goodness with the rich, almost sinful taste of a well-grilled portabella mushroom. I was quickly falling into a cavern of that satiated feeling you get when eating good comfort food on a cold winter night, but the slightly carmelized, slightly sweet cippolini onion kept me from curling up and nodding off into satiation. I was surprised that the roasted plum which I imagined was going to be a deep richness was a somewhat tart, firm brightener to the plate. In addition, there was some sort of grain with a small, somewhat sweet berry (maybe a black quinoa or cous cous and wild blueberries?) that I had assumed was "honshimeji" under the portabellas and a deep magenta glaze that I imagine was part beet juice, part balsamic vinegar? I'll be honest there was so much going on that plate and it tasted so good I didn't bother doing the usual dissection to understand each component itself. Now, about that honshimeji, it turns out to be a tiny white mushroom that grows in clusters and has a slightly nutty, buttery taste. It was much juicier than I anticipated, but seemed somewhat like an afterthought on the plate (kind of like the pea shoots) and I frankly was too stuffed to do anything more than taste it. In hindsight, it might have been a palate cleanser for the richness of the rest of the dish.
All in all, I really enjoyed New Scenic Cafe. There are definite signs of greatness and the place and its staff are very welcoming. One bit of advice to the kitchen, don't rush the job. The guests are most likely enjoying good wine, company and service out front and look forward to enjoying what you all do best. (I add this because in addition to the cool artichoke bits, my companion's caprese sandwich looked like a last minute rush job and didn't taste much better. Maybe that's what you get for ordering a sandwich at dinner?)
3/14/2010 Black Dog Cafe in St. Paul's Lowertown
Arriving in the morning, I wanted a jolt of caffeine and an enjoyable breakfast to set me off on my productive path. The coffee was suitable, not outstanding. The breakfast quesadilla, well, that was the stuff of memories. The tortilla was crispy, airy, yet somehow still also soft. The scrambled eggs and cheese were fluffy and cooked perfectly. The black beans, so deceptively simple yet just the right texture. Now the salsa took this exceptional quesadilla to another stratosphere for me. It's March and Minnesota is emerging from the dulldrums of winter to the slushy drear of early spring, yet this salsa sang of summer freshness. Each bite was like eating summer clouds in the muddy chill of March. While this quesadilla wasn't packing the big flavors tex-mex can, it was so good in its simple and perfect execution I had to give my regards to the cook. Thanks to that quesadilla I was off and running because as soon as I got my work done that salsa was screaming to me that good weather was waiting.
For lunch, I ordered the special - a cubano sandwich with pulled pork, ham, cheese, pickles, peppers, and mustard/mayo on ciabatta. It was a great sandwich. While I'm a fan of big and bold flavors, again, Black Dog's delivery is more subtle but right on the notes it does hit.
We ended up finishing slightly ahead of schedule and decided not to partake in the beer/wine menu, but having it there in case things weren't going so well was comforting and a draw.
The cafe/coffeeshop is pretty spacious as places like this go and there were open seats the whole time I was there. The one complaint is that there is VERY limited access to outlets for the working crowd.
Monday, January 11, 2010
1/10/10 Meritage Does It Again
What I ate (1/10/10):
3-course prix fixe offering
- Carrot soup with spiced creme fraiche and short rib wonton amusements
- Lobster and crab risotto with truffle oil
- Flourless chocolate torte with blood orange and marcona almonds
- $3.50 glass of white wine (wine prices are ridiculously cheap on Sundays.)
Ambiance: I've already reviewed Meritage which has a great romantic atmosphere, so will only add that Sunday night was very slow which seems a shame.
Amusements: I loved the carrot soup which was warm and velvetty. The short rib wonton was tasty and the pickled cabbage slaw helped cut the richness of the ribs and carrot soup.
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Entree: I've never ordered risotto at a restaurant before worried it would be too subtle and creamy for my flavor explosion loving taste buds. The risotto was flavorful with generous sweet lobster chunks. The bell peppers overwhelmed the risotto at first, but black pepper balanced the dish out to my liking. The truffle oil added a nice balance to the sweetness of the lobster and crab.

Dessert: The flourless chocolate cake was the size of a breakfast sausage and came garnished with orange zest, marcona almonds, chocolate sauce, and a delicious blood orange infused creme. A little more of that blood orange goodness and I would have made a fool of myself licking the plate.
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Recommendation: Go to Meritage on Sunday and live dangerously by letting the chef determine your dinner choices. I cannot imagine an unsatisfying experience. If you can't give up that kind of control, Jeff adores the cassoulet. Also, indulge in very reasonable priced wine.
Friday, January 16, 2009
NOLA DISPATCH: Work Travel Dining and More
Gumbo: I had gumbo twice in three nights, and in general it was all good. Remoulade was a more traditional gumbo containing chicken, andouille sausage, and shrimp thickened with roux. Chartres House offered a slightly thicker (again by roux) chicken and sausage gumbo. By far, I would recommend Remoulade's over Chartres House Cafe for the amount of sausage and overall smoky flavor. I can't tell you if one was creole (lighter color and can contain tomatoes) or not. I was looking forward to comparing three gumbos, but a last minute change in menu at the Bombay Club had a less than great chicken and corn chowder fill in for the gumbo option.
Jambalaya: Again, Remoulade and Chartres House square off, and I think again I'd give it to Remoulade. This could simply be because Remoulade offered spicier seasoning, but they also had more noticeable shrimp in the rice. I did like the pepperoncino added at Chartres, but doubt that is a traditional addition to jambalaya.
Redfish with Crawfish Remoulade: The closest to classic cajun/creole on the Bombay Club prix fixe offering I found this dish to be pleasant, but not a home run by any means. Redfish is basically a type of bass and was served blackened with cajun spices and a sweet, chilled crawfish remoulade. I found the remoulade very reminiscent of thousand island dressing and had to douse it in tabasco to make the flavor work with the fish for me. The crawfish were very small and lost in the remoulade. I'm remiss I didn't get crawfish elsewhere since it's in season now in Louisiana. If you get crawfish, locals encourage you to "Just Ask" the server if the crawfish is local, Louisiana wild-caught crawfish.
Check the places I had dinner at out for yourself:
Bombay Club: http://www.thebombayclub.com/
Chartres House Cafe: http://www.chartreshousecafe.com/
Remoulade: http://www.remoulade.com/
Of course, I took advantage of my free time to try some of the other samplings offered in the French Quarter:
Coffee and Chicory: Seemingly all the rage from Cafe Du Monde's popularity, I was curious as to why chicory was added to some coffee in New Orleans. The history seems to point to coffee shortages and a creative filler that ended up having perks beyond extending the beans. Chicory is the root of the endive plant, and grows like a weed in some places. When ground, roasted, and added to coffee the chicory's slightly sweet, chocolatey flavor cuts the bitterness of coffee. I liked this about Cafe Du Monde's cafe au lait and did not find the usual queasiness that follows drinking straight coffee (even when I mix it with milk.) Hardcore coffee fans will likely find the chicory dilutes the depth of coffee's flavor.
Beignets: Again, a staple of Cafe Du Monde which became my morning ritual when my decision to bypass the neon drinks at night had me waking up at 7:30am and eager to get out and walk in the agreeable Louisiana clime. Beignets are a yeasted dough pastry fried in vegetable oil and topped with confectioner sugar (loads of it at this cafe.) The pastries were mostly rectangular in shape and came in orders of three. I personally dusted most of the sugar back on the plate or into my cafe au lait and enjoyed the slightly crisp outside and fluffy interior. For you fair enthusiasts, think funnel cake.
Po' Boy: I don't think you're allowed to leave New Orleans without eating a po'boy. I had wanted to find the recommendation of a colleague where the shrimp po'boy is a garlicky, non-fried shrimp haven tucked inside a french roll; alas, I couldn't remember the name and took the hotel staff's recommendation to check out Johnny's. I got the fried shrimp po'boy dressed which means with mayo, lettuce, tomato, and pickle. I doused it again in tobasco and found it pretty tasty. The place had some 50 different po'boys to offer. My sense is you can do better, but the place was packed so what do I know?
Raw and Smoked Oysters on the half shell: Oysters are growing on me (not literally.) After the delicious Meritage experience, I gained courage to join a small group of colleagues in an oyster outing to Acme Oysters on my last legitimate night in New Orleans (not counting this layover at the airport.) I am so glad I went! The raw oysters were tasty and I dressed them less than usual because I had to share with so many people and enjoyed the oyster itself. However, the big winner...the one I might occassionally dream about is that smoked oyster. Cooked over a grill fire on the half shell the oyster is encrusted in a garlic, parmesan, butter topping cooked to perfection. After you eat these wonderful little treasures, the plate has the leftover buttery, garlicky, oyster juice for you to sop up with bread. So good even if the raw oyster scares you, give this a try!
Check out these places for yourself as well:
Acme Oyster House: http://www.acmeoyster.com/
Cafe Du Monde: http://www.cafedumonde.com/
Central Grocery: not online
Johnny's: http://www.johnnyspoboys.com/
Well, I'll be boarding that flight to Atlanta soon. Who knows, maybe I'll write next about what a $10 meal voucher from Air Tran can get you at midnight at the ATL airport or airport hotels.
Sunday, January 11, 2009
Salut Bar American 1/11/09
What I ate:
- Black currant shortbread with a heavy creme fraiche and chives?
- Rare Ahi tuna nicoise salad
The review:
Ambiance: Large open room with a raw bar dividing the dining from the kitchen. The wall art reminded me of chino latino and the table tops were circa Macaroni Grill. The baguettes are stacked in baggies at the waiter stand with the butters stacked ready for the rush and lacking in any attempt at freshness. The seafood we were reminded came off the same plane as the stock at Oceannaire stealing yet another chance for Salut to have an identity of its own. Nothing special about this one.
Amuse bouche: A little greasy and the creme fraiche was not freshly applied. Overall, it was okay, but could have been better if the restaurant focused on quality more.
Entree: The salad was huge, but dressed lettuce doesn't stand up well as a leftover. I am used to tuna nicoise having freshly seared tuna, warm potatoes; however, this dish was cold all around. The tomatoes were cherry and tasted fresh and good after a bit too indulgent of a weekend of rich foods. The tuna had potential, but was underseasoned and cold. Overall, the plate needed to be seasoned, but overall was not bad.
RECOMMENDATION: For the money, go to Meritage. For the burgers and fries, save yourself half the price and hit up the Nook.
Meritage 1/10/09
What I ate:
- Amusements: Citrus-cured mahi mahi; housemade lamb bacon; confit pig tongue with white beans
- Maine oysters on the half shell
- Roasted rack of Iowa lamb, lamb shoulder en crepinette, cranberry knodle, chestnuts and brussel sprouts
The Review:
Ambiance: In downtown St.Paul on St. Peter, Meritage is in a historic building with great architecture and stone carvings. The restaurant itself transports you to a french brasserie (cafe that serves food) with lots of windows looking out onto the street, intimate seating area with a romantic tone. Dress up a bit and enjoy a night out.
Amusements: The citrus-cured mahi mahi was my favorite with its light, refreshing, slightly buttery taste. I sampled a small bit of the lamb bacon and found the cure impressive since they do it all in house, but I'm not a huge bacon fan. It was with some reluctancy I got the pig tongue, but the primary recommendation by the waiter pushed me over the edge. It was rich, slightly earthy, but a little too salty for me.
Oysters: I don't usually like oysters because the brine and slippery texture can send me over the edge of comfort. However, these oysters were so clean and fresh and the accompaniments were too good to pass up, so I stole two from Jeff with his blessing. Very, very good.
Entree: The little guy was the big star on this plate. The brussel sprouts were a haven of juicy, complex flavor on a plate I might have sent back otherwise. The lamb must have sat too long before reaching the table as the meat and fat had cooled considerably which was odd as the rest of the elements on the plate seemed overcooked or dried out (perhaps again from sitting.) The chestnuts were rich, very dry, and too numerous. The knodle seemed burnt on the outside, but when the outer layer was disposed of the cranberry/bread dumpling was adequate. The lamb shoulder en crepinette looked like a portabella mushroom and was tasty shredded meat and seasoning, but needed to be cut by the brussel sprouts for moisture.
RECOMMENDATION: If you want to impress your date, take them to Meritage with its romantic setting and plan on leisurely walking through the menu's offerings. If you make it to dessert, you've accomplished more than me (the desserts include full portions and bite size tastings and involve izzy ice cream.) Last time I visited, I had the Vegetable Trio and found it superb. They offer a three course $24 meal on Sundays for dinner which seems like a real deal.
Definitions:
confit: a preservation method which involves immersing the item in a substance (usually a herb-enhanced, rendered fat from the animal)
en crepinette: small, flattened sausage made from a meat wrapped in caul fat (caul can be the filmy membrane that surrounds either a pork liver or a newborn mammal)
knodel: a poached or boiled dumpling of potato or bread